Learning Love through Travel in Sao Paulo

Find the Small in the Big

Embrace Where You Are

Everyone Loves Thongs

Find the Small in the Big

What a relief that getting to Sāo Paulo was a quick plane ride in lieu of the wild Mariokart tracks we raced to our previous destination: Caparāo. You would have thought we were on ‘Café Canyon’ where each turn wraps around the coffee fields with the mountains painting the distance. 

Arriving in Sāo Paulo’s airport is like any other, but it’s the preparation for the city itself which has you really feeling the grandness. Unlike NYC, Sāo Paulo houses double of NYC’s population by not up in skyscrapers, but by wide. Museu de Arte Contemporânea da Universidade de São Paulo (Art Museum) offers one of the most amazing views of the skyline. The balcony wrapped rooftop on the 8th floor gifts an immersive view into one of the biggest cities in the world. 

The perspective is gentle. Studying closely you can really peek into society. You can see the Soccer/Football games and hear the cheer of children. You can count the red cars of traffic with the busy highway and hear the dull unified roar of engines. You can find families strolling to the park and imagine the skipping sounds of little shoes eager for the playground. But as you raise your gaze higher, you see the buildings fading into the distance. 

The intimidation of the vast city is so impressive that even NYC seems moderate sized. It really is a part of the challenge to not only figure out how to transport, but to actually travel and explore

Parque Ibirapuera is probably one of the most amazing treasures of the city. It may be easily missed if you are always on the search for museums, but this enormous park seems to have the hearts of so many locals. To be honest, stumbling our way through a simple conversation & website in Portuguese just to rent pedal bikes seemed pretty expected for us, but none the less, we all were entertained. It was hands down one most fun we had flying down little hills, exploring every little pond, running into Mickey Mouse, and laughing as we navigated narrowly missing other pedalers. 

Despite us feeling mutual intimidation to be a single droplet into this entire glass of metropolis, our bond for exploration continues to help us find the most of anything even for simple or small moments like a “walk in the park”.  

Embrace Where You Are

Arriving at the hostel, there was something promising about the map showing quite a few restaurants, a grocery mart, and even a little café within a few blocks walk. My confidence in my hostel choice was shining as I was the one to book the accommodations for Sāo Paulo. It had good Google reviews, was advertised “good for couples”, moderately priced, and had a private room with connecting bathroom. The room was…interesting. There really was not a window to the outside because the entire hostel was squeezed into the middle of a city block, so the window really just faced an club-like area of a bar open to the street. It was fine though. We were taking a break in the room before the night and it felt like someone was slowly turning up the volume outside. The music gradually crescendoed permanently and the sounds of conversation grew. We glanced out the window to find quite a few people at across the staircase sipping their cocktails and a DJ arranging his table. We glanced at each other surprised that this hostel must be housing quite a few travelers despite the size. 

We got ready and hopped over to club-like area to grab our first caipirinhas for the night when we really queued into the roar of conversation. There is something entirely hilarious about looking over the edge of the hostel’s balcony to see the entire street now filled with endless young adults socializing, laughing, and enjoying their Thursday night completing realizing…you booked THE Party Hostel. I busted into laughter looking at David’s knowing very well we probably are going to lose some sleep. 

Thankfully, we are both very easy going and laughed verifying that on Google it did indeed label Garoa Hostel as a Party Hostel. It was kind of the best scenario for us to really get the best night life experience of local bars, restaurants, and club scenes. 

Everyone Loves Thongs

On our final night in Sāo Paulo, we spent some time conversing at our hostel’s bar people watching planning the next day’s exploration at Liberdade Street Market to see much of authentic Sāo Paulo dancing, art, and music. (Only on Sundays, but encapsulates the entire main street for vendors, performance, and culture). 

Surprisingly, Saturday night seemed more tame than Friday party-wise, but the DJ was still playing clearly some hits as small groups sang and danced along. You could see different groups, some from work, some school friends and some that seemed like on group dates all embracing socially. It had been some time as CoVid had slowed and some recent political tensions had loosened which seemed to glow through everyone. There were familiar beats that resembled tunes we knew as if it was more of a guessing game with our limited Portuguese. One melody though…seemed surprising. We smiled watching some sing the chorus aloud, hearing each note…then it was too familiar as 

Sisqo’s ‘Thong Song’ broke through our language barrier. Yup, it was probably about 30 people all singing the ‘Thong Song’ with PASSION. 

So, I guess everyone loves thongs. 

Learning Love through Travel in Rio De Janeiro

What is more important than fear?

The Mind Has Mountains

Love as a Higher Perspective

What is more important than fear?

As much as they love travel, these ostriches be terrified sometimes. Some possible reasons why…

  • Pre-trip conversations with parentals who project their fear of what they do not know and have bias against other countries like Brasil, deeming them unsafe, when ironically the US has equal if not greater reasons to be concerned for your safety in daily life.
  • Canadian wildfires that created zero visibility conditions that grounded flights in New York the day of our flight to Brasil.
  • Travel always involves nudging yourself out of what is known in your comfort zone and into the unknown

UStriches were a bit distraught as we made it from our first flight out of Detroit to the New York airport for a 10 hour layover awaiting our overnight flight to Brasil. You would think for a travel couple we would look excited and be enjoying every second of what we love to do – to travel the world, especially to Brasil, a destination that we have mutually desired to visit together since our first date many moons ago. Yet, here we were dragging our talons to our gate after an epically long layover that gave us a ton of time to fully feel the fears, anxieties, and stresses of travel.

And even though we could have cancelled our trip, when our boarding group was called we chose to cross the threshold of gate security and get our plumes onto the plane. It is an experience of feeling fear but being driven by something that is more important than fear. It’s your life. It’s adventure. It’s the real you that inner voice that moves you forward to experience fullness. It’s love. All it takes is taking a step forward through the fear, then another, and then all the magic happens.

The Mind Has Mountains

We landed in Rio, after one more flight from Sao Paulo, and made our way to an Uber to get to our hostel. Aquarela do Leme Hostel is located pretty close to Copacabana Beach except from the beach you need to go straight up a mountain into what is technically a favela to the doorsteps of this stunningly vibrant hostel. After traversing this mountain, we were greeted by a colorful lobby complete with two dogs and two kids running across the floor naked. The owners of the hostel, whose family coordinated the welcome scene, were incredibly warm and we quickly were drinking a welcome Caipirinha while being shown to our room that had a balcony with a hammock overlooking the ocean.

After taking in the view for like 32 seconds, the winter darkness hit like a blanket across the sky. We had to immediately break every rule we had read (don’t go out at night/walk along the beach at night) because we needed to find some dinner. Even though it felt intimidating to now go down this mountain at night in search of food in a city we did not know and barely speaking Portuguese, we were met only with warm positive interactions as we found our way.

After reclimbing the mountain, plus 4 flights of stairs back in our hostel, I found myself with a throbbing calf cramp that left me limping to walk. Now on any ordinary day this would be non-ideal but this just happened to be the day before the Rio Marathon…a marathon I signed up to run and Pidge signed up to run the 10k her first international race!! Waking up with my leg feeling tough to walk on started to eat away my confidence that I would be able to run at all the next morning. In addition to this, Pidge accidentally filled up our water bottles with non-filtered water and so my cheeks began quivering. Really ideal before a race.

We went to sleep and I got up at 3am and proceeded to hobble my way down the mountain to an Uber to get to the start line. When the race started I realized that I could still feel my calf muscle tighten but that I could run. I then realized that the racing shorts I had bought at the expo, were way too big for me and were slipping off my butt crack. I was holding them up like a 90s high schooler holding up their pants! At many times during the race, I had thoughts of stopping and quitting. I don’t know what kept me going, maybe the fun-spirited Brazilian culture where everyone was dancing through each tunnel we went through or the cheering along the beachfront course. 1km turned to 2km turned to 20km and when I reached around 34 km’s I texted Pidge and told her I would be making it to the finish line – just slowly. It made me tear up. I was proud of myself even though it took me almost 5 hours to finish. My mind has always had mountains and it amazes me how the highs seems to be just around the corner when there is a low. This was my 13th marathon and my 5th continent. Only Australia and Antarctica to go! …and getting my cheeks back up the mountain for some rest (thanks Pidge!) Also congrats to Pidge for finishing her first international 10k race!

As a celebration the next day we went parasailing! I was kind of scared but after Pidge went first I felt less afraid 🙂 And there is something more important than fear…new experiences, full living, love.

Love as a Higher Perspective

The next couple days I was more mobile than I thought I would be and we were able to do some adventuring. We relaxed on Copacabana and Ipanema beaches and tried some Brazilian cuisine…and more caipirinha’s! We somehow managed to do a Samba dance lesson and then go up the Christ the Redeemer mountain for some 360 degree views of Rio De Janeiro. We visited the Santa Teresa neighborhood for some local art, authentic Brazilian food, and views of the whole city. Our time in Rio concluded with an amazing Churrasco on Brazilian Valentine’s Day. As we sat there and laughed with some friends we had met at our hostel while trying a million types of meat, I had some thoughts crystallize. I felt such gratitude for the treats of Rio – the views of the mountains intertwined with the ocean reminded me of how a larger perspective helps you see how everything fits together. The brilliant balancing between the land and the sea, the known and the unknown, reminds us of how love includes it all – the highs and the lows, the mountains of the mind and the valleys of the heart, the fears like waves on the surface of the ocean and the depth below I feel of peace and gratitude of being in love with Kait/Pidge.

Learning Love Through Travel in New Orleans

Overcoming Lows Together in the Voodoo Room

Life-Work Balance Reimagines Life 

Tandem Biking Is Actually as Cute as it Sounds

Overcoming Lows Together in the Voodoo Room

So, we booked the India House Hostel for our first two nights. It was cheap. It was hostel-y. It was honestly pretty dope. We get to the front desk and they tell us we can’t check in for a few hours. I had a zoom call to do so I set up my laptop by the pool to prep for what was about to be the worst zoom meeting of my life. For real. See, I created an innovative virtual childhood centered social justice education fellowship program and little did I know it was about to fall apart into little pieces. It was something I had worked on for over two years with a team based on over ten years of my heart-work with all my mentors. It’s a long story but the best part of what happened is what happened after this shit-show.

In what felt like one of the lowest points of my life, we then had to check in, and the guy at the front desk informed us that we were given “The Voodoo Room.” I went “Okay, let’s see it.” We walk through the hostel, out the back, and then up a crooked piece of wood to two little one room huts over a pond. It looked kind of cute from the outside. The door creaked open. There was a giant painting of the devil, skulls everywhere, red paint marks across the walls like blood. For a moment we stood there and I looked at Kait. I knew everything was going to be alright…if I just quickly went back to the front desk and checked if they had any other rooms available. Turns out the hut next to our was open and it was not voodoo themed..it was tropical vacation themed. That will work. That is what I needed. Kait was there for me on that day like I have never experienced. As Mr. Roger’s used to say “When there is a disaster, look for the helpers.” And how he might have said “When you get put in a voodoo room, you gotta find a different room.”

Life-Work Balance Reimagines Life

This was our first attempt at bringing our work on the road. Well, Kait had to work some of the trip and I acted like I had work even though I was on three weeks of vacation between jobs. We checked into our nice AirB+B, Kait got to working, and I got to walking a few blocks to get us some groceries. I remember thinking about how maybe this is one way in which we can be free by being able to work from anywhere. And how work is currently being reimagined by a new generation that values new experiences over security. Now more than ever the idea of buying a house in the suburbs and living there until you die is becoming less attractive. As lifestyles change and people feel more adventurous to live and work in a variety of places, the entire concept of work is being transformed. I appreciate how Kait opened my mind to this lifestyle. Before I met her, I had only really worked at brick-and-mortar jobs where I drove to the same place everyday for work and then went back home. It re-inspires my imagination to see the possibilities that are opening up for us as a couple as we both have become established in digital nomad careers. Love is opening up my life. Kait is gently showing me life beyond anything I imagined for myself. And I love it!

Tandem Biking is Actually as Cute as it Sounds

We found the central park of New Orleans and soon were loaded onto a Swan Boat, as couples do. About a split second after taking off from the shore I realized I had to poop. So, we re-docked and I went to do just that. We then swan boated together. It was nice. I did not know if anything could be as romantic as swan boating.

Until a few days later when we came back and decided it was time for us to tandem bike. We got a picture on the tandem bike at rest right before we “took flight” just in case the flight didn’t go so well. The picture looked good. We looked solid on that tandem bike together. The first attempt at taking off was like a baby bird stepping out of the nest the first morning of flying lessons. It was as Ludacris says “Jiggy jiggy jerkin” as we found our balance together and rode off slowly into the distance! I was so relieved that we didn’t crash and we started to find a rhythm with it. Until up ahead there was a large tree branch in the way over the sidewalk and I yelled “duck” to Pidge and she bent down just in time a millimeter enough for it to graze over her. She is one tall ostrich. We made it to our destination of “The Bird’s Nest Cafe” and rested our butts there for a while before riding gracefully to the lake for some video coverage and then safely back to the rentals place. What at first was most nerve-racking was now my favorite part. We learned to work together to get the cleanest gliding starts. I loved feeling that synchronicity with Kait as we glided almost off the ground together like… Flyin Ostriches.

Learning Love Through Travel in Milan

“The bird who dares to fall is the bird who learns to fly”

Paris is always a connection

Gratitude for opportunity

“The bird who dares to fall is the bird who learns to fly

Milano: the supreme, urban city where fashion and design encompass the locals and command the tourists.  The known prestige made me hesitant. Neither David or I are materialistic and often opt for simplicity, so the concern of being overwhelmed into a labyrinth of Mykonos all over again was understandable. I had even suggested to potentially stop at non tourist/local city instead, but ultimately we decided to book our flight and hostel stay in Milano as our final destination of the trip. 

Upon arrival, there was a calmer tone to the city compared to the other tourist areas of Italy that seemed much more structured and scheduled. In general, there seemed like there was an appreciation for waiting or intention for walking. As usual upon arrival, we meandered our way to the hostel admiring the quietness of the streets and poise of each building. The “Yellow Square Milan” offered a luxury hostel experience. The common space connected by restaurant, café, bar, workspace, and community with what looked like University students exchanging personalities. 

The hostel room wall displayed a large painting with a bird and quoted “The bird who dares to fall is the bird who learns to fly”. It was difficult to hide my tears at something that seemed simple, but felt personal. Just 2.5 weeks prior to this Europe trip, I experienced some difficult life changes that were still in process for me. The bird comforted me as such a wonderful reminder that the best opportunity was still coming, but I would have to endure some pain first. 

We headed out for some late afternoon/night exploring. I feel that every time we visit a large city, we underestimate distance. Simply walking a new city is, by far, one of my favorite things to do. I love to submerge into the architecture, daily pedestrians, and city scapes, but I feel notorious for incorrectly guessing how much walking to do. We probably spent a good 45 minutes trying to navigate to the Duomo while cross checking street signs to our phone map. There was not as much anticipation as concern when we passed numerous shops and restaurants that looked like they have not opened since pre-covid.  Part of me wondered if Milano hadn’t reflected back to tourism yet, until we arrived at Duomo di Milano (Milano Cathedral). The grand Cathedral stood grounded in pride within Duomo Square next to Vittorio Emanuele II. We joined other younger appearing University students and young locals for Aperol Spritzs at a little bar called ‘Motta’ located just next to the Cathedral. I would say we definitely got lucky because there was a line when we had first passed and lines at the various other drinking establishments surrounding the Duomo. Milan felt very young with so many people enjoying the company of others on a Sunday night whether what looked like romantic partners, friends, co workers. 

The travel exhaustion motivated us to find a Metro entrance to which now felt like a breeze compared to Paris. Milan seemed to have had more levels to the Metro though which did turn us around a couple times. Arriving back at the hostel, we enjoyed a couple more drinks in the downstairs club. We climbed down the steps of the hostel to hear Disney’s Mulan “I’ll Make a Man Out of You” in a different language sang by a group of young, elated travelers. Such an iconic song that seemed to harness the inner strength of many across the world. In the club, we met a few other travelers including many solo European travelers on University Spring Break. We finished our night to Celine Dion’s “My Heart Will Go On” and Queen’s “We Are the Champions” which feel very overplayed in America, but still are all time favorites among young Europeans. 

Paris is always a connection

The following morning, we had our final day ahead of us to explore Milan. We went down to the common space to enjoy breakfast. There was another younger gentleman that sat in the table next to us that seemed to be solo traveling. David commented asking about the Paris Disneyland bag at his feet considering David had been interested in visiting when we were in Paris. That kind man ended up being one of the most gentlest and beautiful humans we had met. We surprisingly spent the next few hours connecting with him about so many things including our experience growing up in America and his experience in Venezuela then moving to Croatia. We had shared and connected so much over love for others. For a morning we had contemplated just grabbing a croissant to go, but instead taking time to enjoy the time was rewarded with such a wonderful connection at breakfast. 

We knew we were fitting a lot into a little amount of time while in Europe, but we also knew this was our only opportunity for some time and we had to take it. We knew we would still be missing out on so much while taking in so much, but what we found in Milan was special. 

The afternoon we had separated from our new friend with plans to meet again in some hours for Gelato before his flight. We found ourselves on the search for water as always come to surprise that there was not as many waterways in Milano. We did find one water view called the Grand Canal in the Navigli District just a simple few Metro rides away in the Southern area of Milano. The canal was lined with street vendors and small little restaurants as much of Europe has perfected. We strolled along it slowing out pace in the sun to forget that it was much chillier than Malta especially in the shade. 

One thing that surprised me was a quick experience in a restaurant. We entered into the tented front to be told that we needed a reservation to a surprise. It was Monday midday and there were maybe 30%, if generous, of the tables filled. Ironically, I had just been admiring that with David that very little eateries had required reservations in much of Europe. It is one of my pet peeves from living in America and constantly having to have reservations making it impossible to visit. Personally, I see it as an inefficient and lack of purposeful concept. Not more than two doors down, we found another restaurant that ended up being so fitting for us. We had one of the most delightful lunches with wine bottles on the wall with little lights and plants. The most beautiful part was the large glass bottles on the counters around the open kitchen that illuminated with light. To my surprise this lunch felt paced; David and I recollected on our dreams of living Europe and changes I was personally going through. For an entire eleven day trip with four countries, it seemed that everyday we were taking every moment we could to immerse in the culture, but this day was one to allow every minute to pace with gratitude. 

We enjoyed a couple cappuccinos in the sun next to a canal which still has me conflicted. I had heard much of Italy does not consume cappuccinos in the afternoon, but there seemed like a large amount of coffee lovers that happily indulged. 

We slowly meandered back to Duomo to meet with our breakfast friend. He shared about his experience in the Cathedral as we set off on the exploration for “authentic” gelato. Doing research about Italy you hear about the food in tourist areas that isn’t authentic and, of course, Gelato must be in the cold tins in the counter rather than piled on top. I had hoped at some point someone would give us chainmail and half coconuts to click together as the sound of hooves on the cobblestone streets on the search for this Holy Grail of Gelato. Love a good Monty Python reflection. We easily looped the entire Duomo square peeking around every corner looking for Gelato stands, but failing to even locate even a “non-authentic” Gelato.  Luckily, we finally crawled at the door step of Venchi e Chocolate Gelato for a perfect dessert treat to share wit promise to reconnect when David and I return back to Europe in hope of potentially Croatia. 

Our final part of our Milan was a last minute booking at QC Termemilano in Porta Romana which was minutes from our hostel, Yellowsquare. It seemed very on theme for us considering the what seems like 22 honeymoons we already have been on, for us to go to a luxury spa/bathhouse. What a package to begin with wine and small plates of snacks before heading to the numerous hot tubs outside under the Milan night sky. The building consisted of numerous other saunas of different temperatures as well as a relaxation room. This room had multiple cushions on the floor and a small hut with red heat lamps with different rotations of nature sounds like storm and rainforest. There were couples entangled in each other feeling every second of their breath. Such a highly recommended romantic experience whether with yourself or with your partner or partners. 

Gratitude for opportunity

I could not be more thankful for David to advocate for the time in Milano as well as breakfast at the hostel and beginning conversations with other travelers. It is something he continues to teach me no matter the continent we are on. That every communication with strangers is the opportunity for valuable connection. Being a very independent person consistently questioning the intentions of others, I am so grateful to be reminded of the possibilities.

Milano offers gratitude for opportunity; Opportunity for closure, beginnings, connections, and appreciation.