Learning Love through Travel in Caparao

“The Mountains are Calling and I Must Go” – John Muir

The Mountains Called, We Answered Before it Went to Voicemail

A Lot About Intention

A Picture is Worth 3 Words – I Love You

The Mountains Called, We Answered Before it Went to Voicemail (By Da-V-Day)

It all started with a 8/infinite hour overnight bus ride at butt o’clock from Rio to Espera Feliz. This is what that looked like (pic on right)..impossible to sleep except for the guy right behind us who sounded like a bull frog for 92% of the trip.

We wore shorts on the bus as it had been hot in Rio and we were greeted in Espera Feliz around 4am by our friends Ari and Thalles in winter parkas, hats, and scarves. It was COLD…crisp! They then drove us through the bumpy countryside roads into the Caparao National Park area which is home for Ari and Thalles! It was super dark but the stars lit our way highlighting the silhouettes of the mountains, and we soon found ourselves at Ari and Thalles’ AirBnB guest house – Casa da Serra Caparao Instagram @casadaserracaparao – objectively the most gorgeous AirBnB in this galaxy.

We rested for a few hours as the sun came up before going with our gracious hosting friends out to the delectable local lunch buffet at Cantina da Tia Nena, and adulting/getting some groceries in the nearest town. Then, we were kids again liberated in the Caparao mountains for some exploring, hiking, waterfall chasing, and bathing in pure nature. It was intensely refreshing and the joy of Thalles and Ari was palpable to share their home sweet home with guests. They are truly the best hosts you could ever hope for – the most loving and fun couple you will meet, and so beautifully passionate about facilitating an authentic, remarkable, and memorable visit for us. We are so grateful for them (if you are reading this Ari and Thalles..thank you, thank you, thank you!) As we went around town with them we quickly learned that they were local celebrities (or they paid everyone to act like they were!) and it was heart-warming to see such a vibrant close-knit community that Ari and Thalles are a part of and actively contributing to its beauty. Later that day we had some great conversation as we sorted coffee beans together that were literally picked in their backyard, we relaxed and breathed in the mountains from some hammocks, and had a night fire to let the stars inspire our imagination and feeling of reconnection to this wild marvelous world.

The next couple days we fell in love with the flow of the mountain life – the ecstatic feeling of exploring the wilderness and jumping into refreshingly cold water of waterfalls in the park, the sweet delights of local Fred’s fresh and locally made coffee and the most incredible chocolate chip cookies, and the chance to slow down and connect with locals having our friends as our bridge for intercultural connection. It really is the simple things that sparkle in Caparao and the presencing in the moments that filled our days in Caparao with laughter, learning, reflection, rest, contentment, and solitude.

We were especially fortunate to attend the area’s Festa Junina which just happened to be on one of our nights visiting. It felt like the entire community turned out in all its festive energy to celebrate and we were treated to traditional Brazilian dance and animated traditional stories, festive treats and drinks, and even a mechanical bull/buttery poll was prepared for a climbing competition. Right in the middle of the awe-inspiring traditional dance, complete with couples in colorful coordinated outfits, a torrential rain storm came through and knocked out the power. We stood under an awning for a bit enjoying the comradery with everyone as the storm intensified and feeling the power of nature, the power of community, and the joy of being a part of it all wash over us.

A Lot about Intention (By Pidge)

Ahhh, Espera Feliz to Caparão. It felt so beautifully rural. The roads wrapped along the elevation where each turn exposed the immaculate views. The national park painted the background and the coffee farms colored the landscape. Greens & grays countering the red, brown and orange creating a beautiful masterpiece. Then many houses with fun yellows and blues bringing a sense of mystery into the picture that each house that protected people and families with stories and experiences. And we were just so lucky for the opportunity to be in one with a beautiful couple. 

When we originally were planning Brazil, we had not planned for there, but with such an opportunity came the intentionality. I found myself thinking a lot about intention with every smile we met; It felt embodied there. Each person we were introduced to had a light about their purpose or an ambition for their passion. The park rangers for the Caparão National Park had a sense of protection for the park and nature. The local farming family was so giving to not only provide for their own family, but also the community. The owners of a local café were so loving with their family and coffee that they loved sharing it with others that shared that same love. 

More personally, we were lucky enough to learn about our host/friends’ passions. Ari envisioned their place as a yoga and/or retreat haven where she shared her practice to help others. Thalles had planned to explore being a park guide to share his excitement about what Caparão could provide. (Happy to share that we have cheered them on while watching each grow into their passions). 

That part of the trip honestly gave such a richer understanding of Ikigai. Although anyone can read the book, it takes a lot to understand and live to it. Being raised in the U.S. has a lot of privilege I am grateful for, but sometimes I do get saddened by the suppression of ‘living life with such a purpose’. Sometimes living in the U.S. feels more like we are playing a role in a playwright rather than actually experiencing the liveness of life which I appreciate Espera Feliz & Caparão for offering such perspective. 

A Picture is Worth Three Words – I Love You

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Learning Love through Travel in Sao Paulo

Find the Small in the Big

Embrace Where You Are

Everyone Loves Thongs

Find the Small in the Big

What a relief that getting to Sāo Paulo was a quick plane ride in lieu of the wild Mariokart tracks we raced to our previous destination: Caparāo. You would have thought we were on ‘Café Canyon’ where each turn wraps around the coffee fields with the mountains painting the distance. 

Arriving in Sāo Paulo’s airport is like any other, but it’s the preparation for the city itself which has you really feeling the grandness. Unlike NYC, Sāo Paulo houses double of NYC’s population by not up in skyscrapers, but by wide. Museu de Arte Contemporânea da Universidade de São Paulo (Art Museum) offers one of the most amazing views of the skyline. The balcony wrapped rooftop on the 8th floor gifts an immersive view into one of the biggest cities in the world. 

The perspective is gentle. Studying closely you can really peek into society. You can see the Soccer/Football games and hear the cheer of children. You can count the red cars of traffic with the busy highway and hear the dull unified roar of engines. You can find families strolling to the park and imagine the skipping sounds of little shoes eager for the playground. But as you raise your gaze higher, you see the buildings fading into the distance. 

The intimidation of the vast city is so impressive that even NYC seems moderate sized. It really is a part of the challenge to not only figure out how to transport, but to actually travel and explore

Parque Ibirapuera is probably one of the most amazing treasures of the city. It may be easily missed if you are always on the search for museums, but this enormous park seems to have the hearts of so many locals. To be honest, stumbling our way through a simple conversation & website in Portuguese just to rent pedal bikes seemed pretty expected for us, but none the less, we all were entertained. It was hands down one most fun we had flying down little hills, exploring every little pond, running into Mickey Mouse, and laughing as we navigated narrowly missing other pedalers. 

Despite us feeling mutual intimidation to be a single droplet into this entire glass of metropolis, our bond for exploration continues to help us find the most of anything even for simple or small moments like a “walk in the park”.  

Embrace Where You Are

Arriving at the hostel, there was something promising about the map showing quite a few restaurants, a grocery mart, and even a little café within a few blocks walk. My confidence in my hostel choice was shining as I was the one to book the accommodations for Sāo Paulo. It had good Google reviews, was advertised “good for couples”, moderately priced, and had a private room with connecting bathroom. The room was…interesting. There really was not a window to the outside because the entire hostel was squeezed into the middle of a city block, so the window really just faced an club-like area of a bar open to the street. It was fine though. We were taking a break in the room before the night and it felt like someone was slowly turning up the volume outside. The music gradually crescendoed permanently and the sounds of conversation grew. We glanced out the window to find quite a few people at across the staircase sipping their cocktails and a DJ arranging his table. We glanced at each other surprised that this hostel must be housing quite a few travelers despite the size. 

We got ready and hopped over to club-like area to grab our first caipirinhas for the night when we really queued into the roar of conversation. There is something entirely hilarious about looking over the edge of the hostel’s balcony to see the entire street now filled with endless young adults socializing, laughing, and enjoying their Thursday night completing realizing…you booked THE Party Hostel. I busted into laughter looking at David’s knowing very well we probably are going to lose some sleep. 

Thankfully, we are both very easy going and laughed verifying that on Google it did indeed label Garoa Hostel as a Party Hostel. It was kind of the best scenario for us to really get the best night life experience of local bars, restaurants, and club scenes. 

Everyone Loves Thongs

On our final night in Sāo Paulo, we spent some time conversing at our hostel’s bar people watching planning the next day’s exploration at Liberdade Street Market to see much of authentic Sāo Paulo dancing, art, and music. (Only on Sundays, but encapsulates the entire main street for vendors, performance, and culture). 

Surprisingly, Saturday night seemed more tame than Friday party-wise, but the DJ was still playing clearly some hits as small groups sang and danced along. You could see different groups, some from work, some school friends and some that seemed like on group dates all embracing socially. It had been some time as CoVid had slowed and some recent political tensions had loosened which seemed to glow through everyone. There were familiar beats that resembled tunes we knew as if it was more of a guessing game with our limited Portuguese. One melody though…seemed surprising. We smiled watching some sing the chorus aloud, hearing each note…then it was too familiar as 

Sisqo’s ‘Thong Song’ broke through our language barrier. Yup, it was probably about 30 people all singing the ‘Thong Song’ with PASSION. 

So, I guess everyone loves thongs. 

Learning Love through Travel in Rio De Janeiro

What is more important than fear?

The Mind Has Mountains

Love as a Higher Perspective

What is more important than fear?

As much as they love travel, these ostriches be terrified sometimes. Some possible reasons why…

  • Pre-trip conversations with parentals who project their fear of what they do not know and have bias against other countries like Brasil, deeming them unsafe, when ironically the US has equal if not greater reasons to be concerned for your safety in daily life.
  • Canadian wildfires that created zero visibility conditions that grounded flights in New York the day of our flight to Brasil.
  • Travel always involves nudging yourself out of what is known in your comfort zone and into the unknown

UStriches were a bit distraught as we made it from our first flight out of Detroit to the New York airport for a 10 hour layover awaiting our overnight flight to Brasil. You would think for a travel couple we would look excited and be enjoying every second of what we love to do – to travel the world, especially to Brasil, a destination that we have mutually desired to visit together since our first date many moons ago. Yet, here we were dragging our talons to our gate after an epically long layover that gave us a ton of time to fully feel the fears, anxieties, and stresses of travel.

And even though we could have cancelled our trip, when our boarding group was called we chose to cross the threshold of gate security and get our plumes onto the plane. It is an experience of feeling fear but being driven by something that is more important than fear. It’s your life. It’s adventure. It’s the real you that inner voice that moves you forward to experience fullness. It’s love. All it takes is taking a step forward through the fear, then another, and then all the magic happens.

The Mind Has Mountains

We landed in Rio, after one more flight from Sao Paulo, and made our way to an Uber to get to our hostel. Aquarela do Leme Hostel is located pretty close to Copacabana Beach except from the beach you need to go straight up a mountain into what is technically a favela to the doorsteps of this stunningly vibrant hostel. After traversing this mountain, we were greeted by a colorful lobby complete with two dogs and two kids running across the floor naked. The owners of the hostel, whose family coordinated the welcome scene, were incredibly warm and we quickly were drinking a welcome Caipirinha while being shown to our room that had a balcony with a hammock overlooking the ocean.

After taking in the view for like 32 seconds, the winter darkness hit like a blanket across the sky. We had to immediately break every rule we had read (don’t go out at night/walk along the beach at night) because we needed to find some dinner. Even though it felt intimidating to now go down this mountain at night in search of food in a city we did not know and barely speaking Portuguese, we were met only with warm positive interactions as we found our way.

After reclimbing the mountain, plus 4 flights of stairs back in our hostel, I found myself with a throbbing calf cramp that left me limping to walk. Now on any ordinary day this would be non-ideal but this just happened to be the day before the Rio Marathon…a marathon I signed up to run and Pidge signed up to run the 10k her first international race!! Waking up with my leg feeling tough to walk on started to eat away my confidence that I would be able to run at all the next morning. In addition to this, Pidge accidentally filled up our water bottles with non-filtered water and so my cheeks began quivering. Really ideal before a race.

We went to sleep and I got up at 3am and proceeded to hobble my way down the mountain to an Uber to get to the start line. When the race started I realized that I could still feel my calf muscle tighten but that I could run. I then realized that the racing shorts I had bought at the expo, were way too big for me and were slipping off my butt crack. I was holding them up like a 90s high schooler holding up their pants! At many times during the race, I had thoughts of stopping and quitting. I don’t know what kept me going, maybe the fun-spirited Brazilian culture where everyone was dancing through each tunnel we went through or the cheering along the beachfront course. 1km turned to 2km turned to 20km and when I reached around 34 km’s I texted Pidge and told her I would be making it to the finish line – just slowly. It made me tear up. I was proud of myself even though it took me almost 5 hours to finish. My mind has always had mountains and it amazes me how the highs seems to be just around the corner when there is a low. This was my 13th marathon and my 5th continent. Only Australia and Antarctica to go! …and getting my cheeks back up the mountain for some rest (thanks Pidge!) Also congrats to Pidge for finishing her first international 10k race!

As a celebration the next day we went parasailing! I was kind of scared but after Pidge went first I felt less afraid 🙂 And there is something more important than fear…new experiences, full living, love.

Love as a Higher Perspective

The next couple days I was more mobile than I thought I would be and we were able to do some adventuring. We relaxed on Copacabana and Ipanema beaches and tried some Brazilian cuisine…and more caipirinha’s! We somehow managed to do a Samba dance lesson and then go up the Christ the Redeemer mountain for some 360 degree views of Rio De Janeiro. We visited the Santa Teresa neighborhood for some local art, authentic Brazilian food, and views of the whole city. Our time in Rio concluded with an amazing Churrasco on Brazilian Valentine’s Day. As we sat there and laughed with some friends we had met at our hostel while trying a million types of meat, I had some thoughts crystallize. I felt such gratitude for the treats of Rio – the views of the mountains intertwined with the ocean reminded me of how a larger perspective helps you see how everything fits together. The brilliant balancing between the land and the sea, the known and the unknown, reminds us of how love includes it all – the highs and the lows, the mountains of the mind and the valleys of the heart, the fears like waves on the surface of the ocean and the depth below I feel of peace and gratitude of being in love with Kait/Pidge.